Our Travels: Part 3

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Day 11: Friday, 3 August 2012

Seronga – Mohambo ferry crossing, Botswana – Rundu, Namibia

We got up early so that we could get on the road (the sandy road from before, same track back). We were a little apprehensive about the trip back up to the ferry crossing, and then with the ferry and border crossing ahead of us, we wanted to make sure we had enough driving time. The drive out of the campsite was actually ok this time (pure sand road) and then we drove from Seronga town towards the ferry. We were more careful and were aware of the few pitfalls along the road. When we reached the spot where the car had been stuck in sand, we knew to take the ‘alternative route’ and all in all the drive back to the ferry was not that bad. When we arrived at the ferry, there were about 8 cars in front of us, and about 30 people standing around. Four cars fit on the ferry, and about 40 people.
 
In the guidebook it had mentioned 45 mins for the crossing, but we weren’t sure what this meant, as when we took the ferry in the opposite direction two days previously, it seemed to just go back and forth when the people waiting had boarded. So after about a 5 minute wait, the ferry arrived. Cars and people alighted, and all seemed to be moving smoothly. We were standing outside our car, and a car that had just come off the ferry slowed beside us. The guy said hello, and I said hello back, and there was something about the sound of his voice that I recognised. He was one of the guys who had helped us out of the sand. I thanked him again for this help, and I think he was a little surprised that I had remembered him. He said he was glad that we had made it there and back in one piece. It was also good to see him out and about in his car again since it was broken down the last time we spoke. He said the repairs should last until the next problem arises!

So as the cars moved away, the queue moved forward. The ferry went back to the other side, and then nothing seemed to be happening after 10 minutes. Then we thought that maybe the ferry was on this 45 minute schedule. But after 1 hour, nothing seemed to be happening. At this stage, many cars had pulled up and the queue was just getting longer. And also many more foot passengers had arrived. 30 more minutes passed, and nothing seemed to be happening. Everyone was just looking over at the ferry wondering what was going on (there is no two-way communication between the two sides). We just had to wait and see! 

I then started talking to a local man who worked at the water treatment facility, and he mentioned that the ferry workers were having some sort of a meeting. I joked to Esben that one of the workers had brought the union in to sort out a dispute, and that the ferry was going nowhere. Either that, or the engines had failed. We waited once again in the queue, and more people arrived. While we were waiting, we had both front doors open to let air in, and suddenly someone beeps Esben to close the driver’s door. It is a 4WD coming down the road towards where you drive on, and to us he is totally skipping the queue. Of course, what do you do when someone might drive through your door? So Esben closes his door, and the car drives by, and parks down where you drive onto the ferry – surely he didn’t just skip 15 cars?

And then, after 3 and a half hours, there is movement on the other side. The ferry comes across, and a police official gets off. We weren’t sure what is happening and I just say, if they cancel the ferry we’re kind of stranded here, so Esben heads down to the water front to talk to someone. He meets the police guy, and he mentions that the ferry workers called a staff meeting, and that’s why it was delayed. A staff meeting? In the middle of a Friday? One of the busiest days of the week? What the hell? On his way back, Esben starts chatting to a guy in a truck in front of us. He’s American (called Andy), but has lived in Botswana for about 37 years. He teaches at one of the local schools in a village before Seronga, and travels over to the more mainland parts about once a month. He has worked here for 3 years (having worked in Maun before this) and plans to work at the school until probably 2014. He mentioned to Esben that the guys in the 4WD who just drove by the whole queue simply just did it because they didn’t want to wait. They weren’t officials of any kind. He also said that when his children come to visit, they all go around and pick up litter. You see signs everywhere in Botswana and Namibia about not littering, but there was a lot of litter in Botswana (on the sides of the road), and the locals tend to just leave bottles and cans on the ground, even though there is a bin nearby. This sounds like a lot of people in many countries, actually. Andy said that once they pick everything up, the place is spotless for a while, and then they notice that it is back to its old self with rubbish everywhere. Esben and I both said that it reminds us of when we were in South America. People would throw bags of rubbish from bus windows when they were finished with it, and the landscape was littered with plastic, which of course is not good for many reasons.

We eventually got on the ferry after it did about 3 trips over and back. While on the ferry, Andy mentions that one of the guys hitching a lift with him caught some fresh fish in the Okavango river, so if we were interested – brilliant, the perfect thing to spend our last 10 pula on – dinner should be yum! Because of the delays with the ferry, and the border crossing, we were a little behind schedule. We wanted to at least reach Rundu today, and so we had to drive right up to the last bit of daylight (something we always avoid because of wildlife running about, and also people tend to walk on the roads, even the roads with 120km speed limits!).

After arriving in Rundu, we just picked a campsite which was part of a lodge near Rundu town centre, and set up the tent. At least they had nice picnic tables and good lighting, so it was no problem to prepare dinner. The fish tasted great and we even have some left over for lunch tomorrow. There much have been a festival of some sort going on in Rundu, as you could hear singing and drums being played well into the night. There was something very soothing about it, and I definitely feel fast asleep in no time. The time in Namibia is one hour behind Botswana, so even though we felt tired, it wasn’t that late. However, once it gets dark, it’s easy enough to sleep :o)

Day 12: Saturday, 4 August 2012

Rundu, Namibia – The Living Musuem, Otjozondjupa, Namibia

Rundu is described as a town that is a necessary pitstop to refuel and stock up on supplies. And basically that is all it is. So we were happy enough to leave early, stock up on water, and set off for a place where we could camp and hopefully learn something about the San people (bushmen) and their traditions and culture. The guidebook mentioned a particular campsite where you could do this, and so we headed in that direction. The first 2 hours of the trip was on a good sealed road with a 120km speed limit, so that part of the journey was quick.

Although, we had to stop twice at police checkpoints – firstly checking our car and driver’s licence, and the second one to check the same things, and that we weren’t bringing any meat into different parts of the country. There is a problem with foot and mouth disease in both Botswana and Namibia, and they are quite strict about curtailing the problem.

And then about 50km before reaching the next town of Grootfontein, we turned off onto a gravel track (C44). It was in good condition, and the drive was quite pleasant. The area we were headed to is part of a conservancy, where many San people live. Just before our intended destination, there was another checkpoint – they guy was just dressed in jeans and a top, and I’m not sure what he was checking, but he seemed happy to let us through the gate. According to the GPS we had reached our destination, but there were no signs to the campsite. We drove on a little bit, and then a local directed us to a sign, and it looked like what we had been looking for. On the sign it said, ‘The Living Museum’ and mentioned traditional village tours, so we decided to investigate. It was 6km down a sand track, which from previous experience can be a little hairy. But all seemed to be going well, and we were nearly then when …..we got stuck. Again. We reversed, and that worked, but then couldn’t go forward. Hmmm…what to do. Oh, is that a 4WD coming our way. It was a group of 4 people, 3 on a tour and a driver/guide. They all got out, and three of them helped to push us out. Esben was also pushing, and I was driving. The lady in the car was taking photos/video of us. We’ll be on youtube! or at least famous among her friends, when she shows them her holiday adventures!! It was extremely nice of them to help us. Luckily we were nearly there, and decided to park near the entrance of the campsite, instead of driving further on the sand.

We met the guides in the village (the people of the village are Ju/hoansi San), and we got our stuff from the car and walked up to the village. There were a few activities offered, and we opted to go for the action day – a bushwalk which would involve looking for food, finding out about medications, what the bushmen do to hunt and gather food, singing and dancing, craft making, making a bow and arrow, shooting a bow and arrow and learning about traditions. Irna (I’ll spell it like this, but I’m not sure of the correct spelling) was our guide, and she spoke very good English, and therefore could interpret for us on the tour. The bushman did not speak English, but he was very enthusiastic when he was telling us stories, so it was very interesting to listen to him, even though I didn’t understand everything. The sound of their language is very unusual, full of clicks, and a pleasure to listen to. Three other women came with us on the bush walk – one of which looked about 70, and she was well able to dig for roots to show us what they eat. Esben took video of the bushwalk, and we both said that we look forward to looking back over the video.

The people are dressed in their traditional skins and obviously this centre is set up for tourists, but you can still see how these people still want to live. After the bushwalk we were shown how they make crafts such as jewellery, and a bow and arrow. Esben then went off with the men and he was shown how they would hunt for food. I helped make a bracelet with two of the women from the tribe. It was a very interesting experience!

Later they showed us traditional games that they play and singing and dancing they perform. Some of the dances were to welcome new people to the village and some were to get in touch with the ancestors. The group of people were very welcoming, and even though we couldn’t communicate through language with some of the people, we could communicate in other ways.

As we decided not to drive into the campsite, we are camping just outside on the sandy roadside. While we were setting up the tent, some of the bush was on fire (down the road from us), so we went to investigate. I’m not sure of the reasons for burning the bush, but I’ll ask tomorrow, when we do the tour of the nowadays village – really looking forward to it! After enjoying another lovely sunset this evening, neither of us was very hungry, so had a few snacks and are ready to hit the hay. I love looking at the stars just before I got to bed – it’s a very calming experience, and something I should do more in Denmark. Although, out here, there’s no chance of any pollution or clouds.

Day 13: Sunday, 5 August 2012

The Living Museum, Otjozondjupa, Namibia – Tsumeb, Namibia

The inevitable happened on day 13. We got a puncture. I had noticed that the tired seemed a little low on air the night before, but when we woke up on Sunday morning the tyre was completely flat. Not to worry – we have the spare tyre. And I have some experience in changing tyres – can’t be too difficult, can it? Well, the main problem was that we were on sand. The whole area was covered in sand and it’s really difficult to raise the car on the jack when it’s on sand. We tried using some wood as a base, but that didn’t work. Then we thought that we might try to drive down the sand road (6km) until we came to gravel and then change it. We just weren’t sure what to do.

In the meantime, we decided to go on the tour of the nowadays village, where the San people live. The puncture could wait. We met our guide, Irna, who showed us around the day before. It was very interesting to see where they live now. Yes, all the people wear clothes as we know them, and they now have a pump to supply water. However, it certainly didn’t seem like an easy life by any means. They earn money from tourism, and then they can buy food at the local shop in the village. However, the food is not cheap. They still live in make-shift houses, which would resemble tents or huts. Irna brought us around to each of the houses and introduced us. She told us about the tradition of marriage, and when a girl is 16, she usually marries. The parents of the boy approach the parents of the girl and they arrange the marriage. It is only after they are married that they are allow to be together. They don’t necessarily know each other in advance.

While we were walking around the village, two of Irna’s three children and their friend followed us around. Everyone was very friendly and welcoming. They showed us the primary school in the village. To be honest, it looked very similar to a classroom in my primary school. Words and numbers hanging on the walls so that you can practice – they learn English in school, and they speak their own language at home. It was quite funny to meet all the people from the day before, but this time they were wearing clothes. When we met our main guide from the day before, he wasn’t sure if we recognised him, and Irna was laughing while she was interpreting for us. But we did, even though he was wearing a baseball cap, t-shirt, jeans and runners.  A little different to the skins he was wearing the day before.

Even though the San people don’t hunt anymore (they are not allowed to kill the animals because of legislation to protect the animals of Namibia) and they get their water via a pump instead of drinking rainwater, their ‘nowadays life’ is far from easy. I hope that tourism and selling jewellery, which the women in the village make, can help them to sustain a good life. I would recommend that people visit this village – it certainly is an eye-opener into how the indigenous people live in Namibia.

After the tour, we had to face the task of changing the tyre, and hope that the car would get us out of the sand area, and back on the gravel road. We were a little ahead of time, but as it was a Sunday, no tyre place would be open to repair our puncture. The rock that I found worked well as a support for the car jack and we had the tyre changed in no time. We waved goodbye to some locals who were sitting near us and watching us closely as we changed the tyre, and then we were on our way. The sand road (6km) was an adventure to say the least, and I was quite relieved to see the gravel road again.

We first drove to Grootfontein to stock up on some supplies, and then onto Tsumeb, where we planned to stay before going to Etosha National Park the following day. Obviously we hadn’t planned that we would get a puncture, so we decided to get a camp site sorted, and just relax for the afternoon. On Monday we would find a tyre place and sort it all out before going into the park. As we entered Tsumeb we saw a sign for a campsite and ended up at a really nice resort, that had expensive chalets and a campsite. Camping wasn’t expensive at all (actually cheaper than the place quoted in the LP), and we were assigned a lovely spot, really near the pool. The place also had washing machines, so it was a perfect time to wash some clothes, go for a swim and then relax by the pool. Everything about the place was great – really nice, clean showers and toilets, and a small kitchen area where we could prepare our food, sit and then wash up afterwards. It was the perfect afternoon after a few really early starts. Now, we just have to sort out the car and then we should be on our way to spot more wildlife!

Day 14: Monday, 6 August 2012

Tsumeb, Namibia – Etosha National Park, Namibia

We got up early to see the sunrise, and then got organised for the day. We decided to use the Internet at this resort – basically our first opportunity so far on the trip. We needed to check some information about a place we’re staying in near the end of the trip, and then just catch up on emails. It’s one thing I don’t actually miss when I’m travelling! But when we log onto Google, I’m reminded that the London Olympics 2012 is on. Better not even get started, so quickly check the details we need and head on our way. 

We drove into the town centre of Tsumeb in search of a tyre repair place. It’s a nice, small enough town, and after asking at a car service shop, we were directed to Tyre 2000, where, hopefully they can help us. The guys were very nice, and we asked them to repair our spare tyre. As the guy took it out of the boot, I immediately spotted a nail stuck in the tyre – that's the answer to our question yesterday. After about 10 mins, we were sorted and on our way (and not too much out of pocket either!).

We decided to stock up on water, petrol and to exchange some dollars for rand before we ventured into the park, where we will be for the next 4 days. Esben said that he would go to the bank, and I would stay near the car (it was too hot to sit inside), just to make sure everything was ok. I sat outside in the shade reading my book. I didn’t really notice, but then thought it was taking Esben a long time to exchange some dollars. So I headed up towards the bank and looked inside. But he wasn’t there. Then I came out and went back to the car. I read some more, and about 10 mins later, I went back to the bank, but still couldn’t find him. Hmmm, so where is he? Of course knowing me, a hundred different scenarios go through my head. None of which are very pleasant to be honest. I walk back to the car and then walk a little bit around, but I still can’t see him. So I go back to the bank and ask at the information desk, whether the lady has seen my husband. It was like something from a film, but I was getting a little worried at this stage. She said she hadn’t seen him, and if he wanted to change money, he would do it at the teller’s desk. But he wasn’t there – I thanked her, and headed outside. Ok, this is strange now. Of course more scenarios go through my head once more, and I start to walk back to the car, and as I turn to look again, Esben comes around the corner. Phew – he had to go to another bank as the system in the first bank was down until 5pm, and then the lady in the second bank seemed to take a short coffee break while going to get the rand. And then when she came back she had Namibian dollars with her – what!

Anyhow, after Esben came back, we both thought that two more tyres looked a little soft. I suggested that we go back to the same tyre place – the last thing we need is to be stranded in Etosha with tyre problems. So we head back and they smile when they see us again. We explain about the tyres, and then one of the guys noticed that part of the metal rim on the tyres has been bent and therefore the tyres are losing some air. We were able to trace this back to an incident that happened about two days into the trip. We were driving along a well-paved highway, and then out of nowhere part of the tarmac disappeared and we bounced in and out of a hole basically. We didn’t notice at the time, but obviously this had damaged the wheels a little. 

Anyhow, the guy fixed everything for us, and we were finally on our way. The road to Etosha was a good paved road, and it was only 90km away. However, somehow we managed to pass the sign for it (it was a sign for Namutoni, and Esben didn’t know this). We ended up at another police check point (there are quite a few around Namibia and Botswana, with the main aim of stopping people from bringing meat products to different parts in order to curtail the spread of foot and mouth disease. Anyhow, this policeman asks us for our road certificate (we had to pay it when we arrived in Namibia) and then says that the registration number on the certificate is not the same as the one on our car. Therefore, this certificate is not correct – what? We filled in the details on the form correctly and then the lady at border control wrote them down incorrectly – how is this our fault? And I wouldn’t mind, but two previous police checks had not even noticed this.

We managed to get through eventually and told him we’d get it changed, but I think we might just play dumb – we are tourists after all. Eventually, at around 3.30pm we arrived in Etosha, set up the tent and wandered down to the waterhole. The gates of the resort close at 5.30 (sunset), so there was no point in driving anywhere today.

At the waterhole it was a nice surprise to see two elephants up really close, eating their way through the reeds and drinking water. It’s quite surreal how close you can get to them in this situation and they do not feel intimidated. After cooking dinner, we wandered back to the waterhole when it was dark, but there were no animals about. It gets very cold in the evenings here, and as we were up quite early, we also tend to get tired by 8pm. So we were happy enough to get an early night, so that we could get an early start the next day.

Day 15: Tuesday, 7 August 2012

Etosha National Park (Namutoni – Halali)

We got up at 5am to wander down to the waterhole, but there was nothing happening. Even though we could hear a lot of noises, we couldn’t see anything. This was our first proper day in Etosha. We bought a map of the park the day before, and set out early on some of the suggested routes to visit other waterholes. We didn’t see many animals at the first few waterholes, but we did manage to spot a few along the drive. At about the fourth waterhole we were delighted to see an array of different animals including giraffes, gemsbok, zebras, impalas, wildebeests and ostriches. There were also quite a few 4WDs and tours there too. I honestly think I could sit and look at animals all day! After leaving there we headed to the next waterhole, and there was an elephant and a giraffe both drinking from the waterhole. It was great to see.

On our way out from this waterhole, a tour group had stopped their large 4WD and were pointing over at something, so we decided to do the same. The tour 4WDs are up very high, so they can see things that are much further away. It was two lions asleep under a tree. Since coming to Africa and doing safari tours, I have learnt that lions like to sleep a lot during the day and you don’t see them prowling around all day long. We could see that one was a male lion, and he was wagging his tail. Then all of a sudden he gets up and what seems to be a romantic gesture on his part is not appreciated by his female lion companion. And she lets him know about it too – we were filming them at this stage, so it was funny to hear her reaction. We drove around to more waterholes that day, some of which were totally dry, and spotted quite a few more animals along the way. I seriously have a soft spot for zebras, giraffes and elephants. Esben’s favourites include those as well as the gemsbok, gnu and a small squirrel like animal (I think it's a meercat (suricat)).

We stayed in the middle of the park on the second night, Halali resort, and visited the waterhole at this campsite too. When we headed there after dinner, we were delighted to see some rhino (white). Rhinos usually come to the waterholes at night, and the waterholes are lit up to allow the visitors to see. However, the light is orange, so it’s kind of like looking through night-binoculars. It was very relaxing to sit and watch the rhinos drink from the waterhole, and to see other animals approach with caution given that the rhinos were present. The only downside of sitting by the waterhole at night is that it gets very cold, so you can only tolerate this for so long. Still, long enough for an enjoyable wildlife viewing!
Read more at Our Travels: Part 4